The Elevation and Duration of Wave Crests.
Abstract:
The stream-function wave theory of Dean 1974 is used together with monochromatic and irregular laboratory wave data to develop methods for estimating the elevation and duration of wave crests. The resulting prediction techniques are applied to a wide range of wave conditions measured at CERCs Field Research Facility in Duck, North Carolina, and are shown to give reliable and often conservative estimates of crest elevation. The techniques presented in this report can be used for both nonbreaking and breaking wave conditions. Author
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