Surf and Swash Zone Hydrodynamics

The long-term goal is to improve understanding of the hydrodynamics of the near-shore motions on beaches, with particular reference to the zone where the incident waves break, form surf, and run-up on the beach to give a fluctuating shoreline. This includes the waves and currents that the breaking waves, surf and run-up generate together with necessary details of the motions beneath the waves. Particular attention is directed to improving theoretical models of these motions. The main topics for study are a the turbulence generated by breaking waves and bores. A rational, non-empirical, approach to modelling unsteady spilling breakers and bores is a major target. b the modelling of surf in the presence of co-existing long waves. c improved, and perhaps simplified, modelling of the swash zone. d understanding the currents, eddies and long waves generated by the incident waves, especially for irregular non-uniform waves over non-uniform bed topography.