Comparison of Wave Celerity Theories with Field Data.

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Abstract:

Three independent wave celerity data sets, measured on natural beaches, are compared with linear, bore, solitary, and hyperbolic wave theories. In the range of relative water depths and wave heights tested, hyperbolic wave theory, which is an asymptotic form of cnoidal theory in shallow water, agreed most closely with measured wave celerities. Linear wave theory also gave satisfactory results but bore and solitary wave theories overestimated the observed wave speeds. It is concluded that the observed waves are weakly dispersive in amplitude and that care must be taken to apply the theories only in their regime of validity.

Author(s):
Syvertsen, Michael R.
Author Organization(s):
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA
Descriptive Note:
Master's thesis,
Pagination:
0040

Security Markings

DOCUMENT & CONTEXTUAL SUMMARY

Distribution:
Approved For Public Release

RECORD

Collection: TR
Subject Terms
Joint Capability Areas:
JCA_6.3.3_Spectrum Management; JCA_6.3_Net Management; JCA_6_Net Centric; JCA_3.2_Engagement; JCA_3_Force Application; JCA_3.2.1_Kinetic Means; JCA_5_Command and Control; JCA_1.2.7_Experimentation; JCA_5.3_Planning
Modernization Areas:
Fully Networked C3
Communities of Interest:
Sensors
Descriptor(s):
*OCEAN WAVES, *WAVE EQUATIONS, EXPERIMENTAL DATA, COMPARISON, FIELD TESTS, THESES, DEPTH, SHALLOW WATER, CALIFORNIA, AUSTRALIA, BEACHES, HEIGHT
Field(s)/Group(s):
Physical and Dynamic Oceanography, Numerical Mathematics
Keyword(s):
Wave celerity, Linear wave theory, Bore wave theory, Solitary wave theory, Hyperbolic wave theory, Cnoidal wave theory
Report Date:
1983 Mar 01