OCEAN WAVE CREST AND RAY REFRACTION IN SHOALING WATER BY COMPUTER.

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Abstract:

The knowledge of wave refraction is important in many studies. The rapid and relatively easy gaining of this knowledge is made possible by the use of the modern high-speed digital computer. Large numbers of spectral periods and incoming directions are easily investigated, and immediate results are obtained by use of the plot of the wave crest refraction from the computer. This program presents the wave crest refraction pattern of numerous wave ray points rather than the single ray following technique. Its use is valuable in amphibious operation planning, and in other studies where the distribution of wave energy along the shore is desired for the many periods of the wave spectrum. Author

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