CORPS OF ENGINEERS WASHINGTON D C BEACH EROSION BOARD
Quantitative predictions of the effect of wave action in shore-line processes requires, first, statistical information on the wave height, length, period, and direction, and water depth, at each locality for each season and second, a precise knowledge of the behavior of waves approaching a shore line through deep water, into and through shoaling water. This paper deals with the second phase only, presenting a summary of the theoretical treatments of oscillatory wave motion on a free water surface. It is limited to the type of wave encountered in shore protection problems. Much of the theory requires experimental verification, and mention will be made of the extent to which confirmation has been obtained, without, however, quoting experimental results.