Development of a Sewability Test for Cotton Fabrics
QUARTERMASTER CORPS WASHINGTON DC WASHINGTON DC
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The very great increase in the number and variety of resins and other chemical finishing agents which have come to be employed in thefinishing of textile fabrics, coupled with the employment by practically all Government contractors for clothing of increasingly high speedsewing machines, has made the matter of sewability of fabrics one of major concern both to the cutting-up trades and to consumers. To the military procurement agencies, concerned with the length of service life of clothing provided to troops, it is a matter of prime importance that fabrics shall not be damaged in sewing, and that the resulting product shall have the maximum strength of seams, consistent with other requirements. It has become evident that some finishes applied to textile fabrics greatly reduce the mobility of the yams to shift as the needle penetrates the fabric, thereby making it susceptible to serious cutting by the needle in the sewing operation. To prevent the delivery of fabrics unsatisfactory in this respect, a study was made to obtain a quantitative test method which could be used for quality control purposes. Such a test method has been developed, as is described in this report, which is now being used in practically all specifications for light and medium weight cotton fabrics. The adoption of this test has greatly reduced this particular type of damage and has led to the production of end items that exhibit marked improvement in appearance as well as in serviceability in the field.
- Test Facilities, Equipment and Methods