Nonlinear Time-Dependent Currents in the Surfzone
FLORIDA ATLANTIC UNIV BOCA RATON DEPT OF OCEAN ENGINEERING
Pagination or Media Count:
LONG-TERM GOAL. The goals of this work are to develop better understanding and predictive capability for unsteady currents forced by breaking waves in the surfzone. OBJECTIVES. The major tasks to be accomplished are 1 Examine rip current dynamics for different parameter ranges of wave height, bottom friction, incident wave angle, and beach bathymetry. 2 Couple the wave field to the mean flow in physical-mathematical models for situations that produce alongshore-currents and rip-currents. As unsteady currents evolve the distribution of surface wave breaking and momentum input to the mean currents adjust. We will examine the influence of feedback from the time-mean currents on the radiation stress gradients that parameterize momentum forcing from the surface wave field. 3 Investigate the influence of alongshore topographic variability transverse bars on alongshore currents over plane beaches i.e., without alongshore-parallel sandbars. 4 Simulate field conditions at Duck, N.C. using measured beach bathymetry and wave field conditions from the Delilah and Sandy Duck field experiments. This best effort model will include tides and coupled wave-current interactions.
- Earth Sciences and Oceanography