Wind Input, Surface Dissipation and Directional Properties of Shoaling Waves
WOODS HOLE OCEANOGRAPHIC INSTITUTION MA DEPT OF APPLIED OCEAN PHYSICS AND ENGINEERING
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LONG-TERM GOAL. This project is a component of SHOWEX - a multi-investigator, multi-institutional field study of shoaling surface waves. The long-term goal of this program is to better understand the dynamics of wave evolution on the shelf, and to improve predictive modeling capability there. The component we report on here is closely related to another one of the same name by a group at the University of Miami see the 1999 Annual Progress Report by H.C. Graber and M.A. Donelan. The main SHOWEX experiment is scheduled for the fall of 1999 at Duck, N.C. OBJECTIVES. Spectral wave models typically describe the evolution of wave energy or action as a function of fetch and duration. The rate of change of energy in each spectral band is the residual of the sum of various source terms describing the rate of energy input from the wind, the transfer of energy across the wave number spectrum due to nonlinear interaction with other wave components, and the dissipation due both to wave breaking and to the drag exerted by the bottom. The data obtained in SHOWEX will be used to establish the evolution of the energy in the wave field from the shelf break to the nearshore region.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography