Modeling Swashzone Fluid Velocities
WOODS HOLE OCEANOGRAPHIC INSTITUTION MA
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LONG-TERM GOALS. The long-term goal is to develop and verify models for fluid and sediment processes in the swash zone. OBJECTIVES. The CY99 objectives were to evaluate an existing model of wave runup velocities, extend the model to include a turbulent bottom boundary layer. APPROACH. An existing model Kobayashi et al, 1989, known as Rbreak, based on the depth-averaged nonlinear shallow water equations with quadratic bottom friction is being tested by comparing predictions with observations of swashzone fluid velocities collected during the SandyDuck experiment Fall 1997 conducted near Duck, NC. Cross-shore, alongshore, and vertical velocities were measured with a acoustic current meter at a 2 Hz sample rate for 8 hours. The sampling volume of the current meter ranged from 5 to 15 cm above the sand bed. Owing to changing tidal levels, the cross-shore locations of the observations spanned the swashzone region. The range of measurement positions allows the model accuracy to be examined as a function of sensor elevation above the bed and cross-shore location within the swash zone.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Fluid Mechanics