Wave Breaking, Infragravity Waves, and Sediment Transport in the Nearshore
SCRIPPS INSTITUTION OF OCEANOGRAPHY LA JOLLA CA CENTER FOR COASTAL STUDIES
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The long-term goals of this research are to understand and model the spatial and temporal transformation of wave breaking in the surf zone of natural beaches, and to predict the effect of wave breaking on the forcing of mean and oscillatory flow, sediment transport, and the evolution of large scale topography.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Fluid Mechanics