Nearshore Canyon Experiment: Analysis
WOODS HOLE OCEANOGRAPHIC INSTITUTION MA
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The long-term goals are to understand the transformation of surface gravity waves propagating across the nearshore to the beach, the corresponding wave-driven circulation, and the associated evolution of surfzone morphology. The objective of the Nearshore Canyon Experiment NCEX is to understand the effect of complex continental-shelf bathymetry on surface gravity waves and on the breaking-wave-driven circulation onshore of the irregular bathymetry. Primary objectives this year were quality control processing of all the data in anticipation of public release on 1 January 2006, and analysis of infragravity wave reflections and bathymetric changes. Additional objectives of our research are to test hypotheses for nearshore waves, currents, and morphological change with previously obtained observations.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography