Prediction of the Low Frequency Wave Field on Open Coastal Beaches
MICHIGAN UNIV ANN ARBOR DEPT OF NAVAL ARCHITECTURE AND MARINE ENGINEERING
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The long-term goal of this study is to arrive at a predictive understanding of the time varying circulation in the nearshore region given only information about the incident wave field and bottom bathymetry. Predictions should include information about the kinematics of low frequency motions their wavenumbers and frequencies as well as information about their dynamics energetics. The scientific objectives of the study are related to gaining an understanding of the important features of the nearshore circulation field, so that quantitative predictions about the circulation field at a given site can be reliably made. Specific objectives include 1. The assessment of the impact of specific features of wave groups on edge wave development and the prediction of the finite amplitude edge wave field resulting from a balance between the wave group forcing and dissipation mechanisms. 2. The assessment of the degree to which non-uniformities in the bottom bathymetry both abrupt and gradual affect the resulting low frequency wave climate. 3. The assessment of the importance of interactions between different modes of time-varying motions in the nearshore region, as well as interactions between these modes and the incident wave field. 4. To arrive at a predictive understanding of low frequency motions.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography