Near Shore Wave Processes
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA DEPT OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Pagination or Media Count:
Long-term goals are to predict the wave-induced three-dimensional velocity field and induced sediment transport over arbitrary bathymetry in the near shore given the offshore wave conditions. The interrelationship of wave-induced hydrodynamic and sediment processes over the vertical and morphologic processes at the bed are measured and modeled. The primary mechanism for changes in moment flux that drive near shore hydrodynamics is due to the dissipation by breaking waves, the processes of which are poorly understood. To improve our understanding of breaking waves, the dissipation associated with bubble injection is measured along with the velocity fields over the vertical. Bottom boundary layer measurements are obtained to determine bottom stress and dissipation. Sediment transport is measured in response to the measured mean longshore and cross-shore currents, wave velocities and induced stresses. The small-scale morphology, which acts as hydraulic roughness for the mean flows and perturbs the velocity-sediment fields, is measured as a function of time and over large areas to examine cross-shore and alongshore variation.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Hydrology, Limnology and Potamology
- Fluid Mechanics