Distribution and Mechanics of Nearshore Bedforms
NORTH CAROLINA STATE UNIV AT RALEIGH DEPT OF MARINE EARTH AND ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES
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The long-term goal is to understand the physics of sediment transport by waves and currents and to use that understanding to predict the evolution of nearshore bathymetry given the nearshore fluid-velocity field. A secondary goal is to interpret the environment of deposition and the offshore wave climate from the sedimentary record. Objectives are to generate maps of bed roughness for the entire surf zone from sidescan sonar images and sonic-altimeter-derived bathymetry acquired at Duck, North Carolina during the SandyDuck 97 experiment to theoretically describe and numerically model the substantial effects of fluid acceleration on sheet flow bedload transport in the surf zone and to generate computer simulation models for evolution of nearshore morphology and other grain-scale sedimentary processes.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Hydrology, Limnology and Potamology