Surface Wave Dynamics in the Coastal Zone
DELFT UNIV OF TECHNOLOGY (NETHERLANDS)
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The proposed work will contribute to the improvement of existing third-generation 3G wave models as well as to the development of the next generation of numerical wave modeling capability. The results will be applicable in the coastal zone from deep water up to and including the surf zone. Our efforts will focus on analyzing high quality datasets to support further development of the source terms for triad interactions Snl3, depth induced wave breaking Sbrk and bottom friction Sbot in the near-shore zone. Another point of interest is the generation of bounded long waves in the surf zone. The scientific or technological objectives of this project are to understand the physical processes of the evolution of wind waves in the coastal zone and develop accurate parameterisations of these processes for application in numerical wave prediction models.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Numerical Mathematics