Physical Model Study of Wave Diffraction-Refraction at an Idealized Inlet
ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
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Waves at tidal inlets refract, diffract, and shoal as they travel from deeper water, over the ebb shoal, and into the navigation channel toward the bay. How waves transform as they change direction and height is of interest to navigation because the knowledge will assist in understanding sediment transport in the inlet, especially near the navigation channel, and anticipating wave-related processes inside the inlet, such as shoreline erosion and accretion. In particular, waves diffract where they encounter a jetty, breakwater, or other discontinuity. Diffraction at a jetty can cast a wave shadow either inside the inlet or on the adjacent beach, depending on the incident wave direction. Controlled measurements of wave diffraction on a sloping beach are lacking, yet this combined transformation process is ubiquitous at all coastal inlets.
- Hydrology, Limnology and Potamology
- Civil Engineering