Directional Wave Spectra Using Cosine-Squared And Cosine 2S Spreading Functions
Coastal engineering technical note
COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER VICKSBURG MS
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This Technical Note presents the basic concept of ocean wave directional spreading, why it is important in coastal engineering, and how it is characterized through parametric relationships. The COSINE-SQUARED and the COSINE 2S spreading functions are included. The wave energy at a point has an angular distribution as well as a distribution over a range of frequencies. This angular distribution of wave energy is termed directional spreading. Spectral representations which include both the frequency distribution and the angular spreading of wave energy are known as directional spectra.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Civil Engineering