Nearshore Wave-Topography Interactions
OREGON STATE UNIV CORVALLIS COLL OF OCEANIC AND ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES
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The long-term goal of nearshore processes research hence our program is to develop a predictive understanding of the fluid dynamics of a random wave field shoaling over the complicated bathymetry of a natural beach and the response of the beach to those overlying wave and current motions. Our principle focus in recent years has been to develop understanding of nearshore variability on time scales of days to years the time scales for which predictions become useful for society. Bathymetric evolution is generally significant at these scales and behavior of the system becomes more dependent on the nature of feedback within the system than on the details of component processes. Our primary objective is to understand the link between system feedback mechanisms and system behavior.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography