Near Shore Wave and Sediment Processes
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA DEPT OF OCEANOGRAPHY
Pagination or Media Count:
Long-term goals are to predict the nearshore wave-induced three-dimensional velocity field and induced sediment transport over an arbitrary bottom composed of sediments ranging from mud to coarse sand given the bathymetry, bottom type and offshore wave conditions. The interrelationship of wave-induced hydrodynamic and sediment processes over the vertical and morphologic processes at the bed are measured and modeled. The primary mechanism for changes in momentum flux that drive nearshore hydrodynamics is due to the dissipation by breaking waves, the processes of which are poorly understood. Bottom boundary layer measurements are obtained to determine bottom stress and dissipation. Sediment transport is measured in response to the measured alongshore and cross-shore currents, wave orbital velocities, and turbulent stresses. The small-scale morphology, which acts as the hydraulic roughness for the mean flows and perturbs the velocity-sediment fields, is measured as a function of time to examine cross- and alongshore variations. The sediment environments range from mud to coarse grain sand.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Soil Mechanics
- Fluid Mechanics