CROSSTEX - Wave Breaking, Boundary Layer Processes, the Resulting Sediment Transport and Beach Profile Evolution
Final rept. 1 Nov 2004-30 Sep 2009
WOODS HOLE OCEANOGRAPHIC INSTITUTION MA DEPT OF APPLIED OCEAN PHYSICS AND ENGINEERING
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The proposal for this project was submitted from WHOI to ONR by Tom Hsu under John Trowbridges sponsorship while Hsu was a post-doc at WHOI. WHOI continued to administer the project when Tom Hsu left WHOI, but virtually all of the work was done by Hsu, and virtually all of the funding was spent by Hsu in his new positions at the Universities of Florida and Delaware. Hsus October 2009 report to ONR on this project is attached. The long term goals of this project were to develop and test with laboratory and field data a robust modeling framework that predicts hydrodynamics and the fate of terrestrial and marine sediment in the heterogeneous environment. Objectives were to 1Identify the role of steep waves and breaking wave turbulence on sediment suspension events and its implication on onoffshore sediment transport rate. 2 Develop phasedepth-resolving numerical models for bottom sediment transport and surf zone hydrodynamics. Validate these models using data measured in CROSSTEX and other experiments. 3 Develop simplified phase-resolving formulations for concentrated sediment transport, suspended load transport and its near-bed boundary conditions under breaking waves.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Hydrology, Limnology and Potamology
- Fluid Mechanics