Bedform Evolution and Sediment Transport Under Breaking Waves
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA
Pagination or Media Count:
Observations of the temporal evolution of ripples are analyzed in terms of geometry, migration, crest orientation, and their predicted geometry by models using wave orbital velocities. Two weeks of bedform data were obtained in the surf zone during the RIPEXSBE in April, 2001. Bed sediment consists of medium- to coarse-grained sand D500.43mm. Models capture temporal trends in ripple geometry, but regression analyses show that they do not handle the range in forcing characteristics and geometries in the surf zone well. Transport models of bedload and total load formulated under uni-directional flows qualitatively capture the temporal evolution of observed transport by ripples, suggesting that under low to moderate forcing, bed load and suspended load occur mostly within the bed-following bottom boundary layer, and are measurable by ripple migration alone. Models predict large transport rates when flat beds were observed, so that at higher forcing ripples cannot be used to measure total sediment transport. Using a two-dimensional probability density function PDF of vector displacement peaks, a new ripple analysis model is proposed, incorporating a hierarchy of forcing complexity that includes such physical processes as directional spreading, axis rotation, orbital asymmetry, superimposed currents and infragravity wave velocities. The two-dimensional PDFs are compared with concurrent three-dimensional bed maps and are found to assist in describing ripple sizes, types, orientations, and migration velocities.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography