Directional Distributions and Mean Square Slopes of Surface Waves
NAVAL RESEARCH LAB STENNIS SPACE CENTER MS OCEANOGRAPHY DIV
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Field observations show that the crosswind component constitutes a significant portion of the ocean surface mean square slope. The average ratio between the crosswind and upwind mean square slope components is 0.88 in slick-covered ocean surfaces. This large crosswind slope component cannot be explained satisfactorily based on our present models of ocean wave directional distributions. Two-dimensional spectral analysis of 3D ocean surface topography reveals that bimodal directional distribution is a common feature for wave components shorter than the peak wavelength. The calculated result of the upwind and crosswind mean square slope components using a bimodal directional distribution function is in very good agreement with field measurements.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography