Temporal and Spatial Variability of Bathymetry of a Natural Beach
Final technical rept. 1994-1999
WASHINGTON STATE UNIV PULLMAN
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The coupling between waves, wave-breaking driven circulation, and morphological evolution near the shore was investigated with field observations eg, Duck94, SandyDuck and model studies. Engergetics-based sediment transport models driven with observed currents were shown to predict offshore sediment transport and migration of sand bars observed during storms. The field data suggest onshore transport and bar migration observed during calm periods is related to nonlinearities in shallow water waves that produce asymmetrical near-bottom fluid accelerations.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography