Wave Breaking on a Current at an Idealized Inlet; Coastal Inlets Research Program, Inlet Laboratory Investigations
ARMY ENGINEER WATERWAYS EXPERIMENT STATION VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB
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Laboratory measurements of wave shoaling and breaking on an ebb current were made in an idealized inlet in a wave basin. The experiment arrangement, procedures, and data analysis are described. The wave and ebb current measurements showed increased shoaling and breaking compared to no current, shifting of the spectral peak to lower frequencies, and energy dissipation concentrated at the spectral peak and higher frequencies. The measurements were used to evaluate and develop formulations of wave dissipation on a current for application to a spectral wave model. Whitecapping dissipation formulations underpredicted breaking on a current in shallow water, whereas the bore-based wave dissipation relationship of Banjes and Janssen and a relationship developed in this study provided good estimates of wave-height decay on an ebb current Tables of the wave and current parameters are provided as an appendix.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography