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Set-Up Under a Natural Wave
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA
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Field measurements from a cross shore array of two pressure sensors to measure waves and eight manometer tubes to measure mean water elevation are used to examine set-downup across the surf zone. The manometer tubes are connected to differential pressure transducers onshore allowing continuous set-downup measurements. Flume measurements of set-downup are also examined. Measured values are compared with numeric set-up values incorporating roller theory describing wave breaking. The model has two free parameters, B representing the vertical fraction of the wave covered by the roller and psi a scaling parameter for wave steepness. Optimal values of both are chosen by model fitting. Inclusion of the surface roller improves the set-up model fit to both beach and flume measurements.
APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE