Accession Number:

ADA331932

Title:

Set-Up Under a Natural Wave

Descriptive Note:

Master's thesis

Corporate Author:

NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA

Personal Author(s):

• Morris, Bruce J.

Report Date:

1997-03-01

Pagination or Media Count:

51.0

Abstract:

Field measurements from a cross shore array of two pressure sensors to measure waves and eight manometer tubes to measure mean water elevation are used to examine set-downup across the surf zone. The manometer tubes are connected to differential pressure transducers onshore allowing continuous set-downup measurements. Flume measurements of set-downup are also examined. Measured values are compared with numeric set-up values incorporating roller theory describing wave breaking. The model has two free parameters, B representing the vertical fraction of the wave covered by the roller and psi a scaling parameter for wave steepness. Optimal values of both are chosen by model fitting. Inclusion of the surface roller improves the set-up model fit to both beach and flume measurements.

Descriptors:

• *PRESSURE TRANSDUCERS
• *BREAKWATERS
• *SURF
• PRESSURE GRADIENTS
• THESES
• OCEANOGRAPHIC DATA
• SCALING FACTOR
• ROLLERS
• OCEAN MODELS
• BEACHES
• HYDROSTATIC PRESSURE
• MANOMETERS

Subject Categories:

• Physical and Dynamic Oceanography

Distribution Statement:

APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE