Ocean Waves in SAMSON/SWADE
Final technical rept.
WASHINGTON STATE UNIV PULLMAN
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The scientific objective of this project was to determine the origin and governing dynamics of the low frequency nominally 0.01 Hz infragravity waves which are sometimes very energetic in shallow water. Possible generation mechanisms include local nonlinear forcing of bound infragravity waves by groups of sea and swell, excitation of freely propagating edge waves in nearby surf zones, and ocean-basin-wide propagation of infragravity waves excited by large, distant storms. Important dynamical questions include what are the amounts of infragravity energy reflected by the beach face, refractively trapped during propagation across the shelf, and lost by bottom friction.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography