Multi-Periodic Waves in Shallow Water
Final rept. 1 Oct 1989-31 Mar 1992
FLORIDA UNIV GAINESVILLE DEPT OF ENGINEERING SCIENCES
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Nonlinear ocean waves with two-dimensional surface patterns in shallow water are studied analytically and experimentally. The analytical model is a family of periodic solutions of the Kadomtsev-Petviashuili equation. The experiments demonstrate the accuracy of these solutions. When these two- dimensional waves shoal on a planar beach, they quickly generate an array of periodic rip currents. Mach reflections of cnoidal waves are also modelled by these KP solutions. Ocean waves, Two-dimensional, Nonlinear, Rip currents.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography