Irregular Wave-Induced Velocities in Shallow Water
TEXAS A AND M UNIV COLLEGE STATION DEPT OF OCEAN ENGINEERING
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Irregular shallow-water waves were generated in a flat-bottom, two- dimensional wave tank with a partially reflecting spending beach. The velocity of the fluid particles was measured with a laser-Doppler velocimeter at different spatial locations while the water surface elevations were measured nonsynoptically with capacitance type wave gages. One-hundred-and-eight irregular wave particle velocity time series were studied. Theoretical and measured statistics were compared for both the horizontal and vertical directions. The wave conditions were selected so that nonlinear effects could be quantified. The results show that the root-mean-squared water particle velocity can be predicted to with 10 percent based on the measured incident wave height spectrum, reflection coefficients, and linear wave theory. The error is uncorrelated with the relative depth, Ursell number, and other measures of nonlinearity. An extension of Gaussian probability distribution based on Grain- Charlier series was applied to the entire velocity time series. Beta-Rayleigh distribution, Laboratory experiments, Bottom velocity, Laser-Doppler velocimeter, Wave Kinematics, Irregular wave statistics.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography