Accession Number:

ADA210671

Title:

The Effect of Breaking Waves on the Directional Spectrum of Waves in Water of Variable Depth in the Presence of Current

Descriptive Note:

Final rept.

Corporate Author:

NORTH CAROLINA STATE UNIV AT RALEIGH DEPT OF CIVIL ENGINEERING

Personal Author(s):

• Tung, Chi C.
• Cho, Yong J.

Report Date:

1989-06-01

Pagination or Media Count:

43.0

Abstract:

This report details an approximate method for calculating the directional spectrum of waves encountering a current in shallow water. The wave trains in the directional spectrum are assumed to be linear and Gaussian development of the spectrum requires that the waves also be short crested. The bathymetry is assumed to consist of straight parallel contours. The Miche breaking criterion is imposed to determine the upper limit of wave height and to establish an expression for the breaking wave elevation in terms of the ideal waves elevation and the second time derivative of elevation. Snells Law is used for wave refraction. Two examples are given one for a Wallops directional spectrum encountering a shear current, and one with an upwelling current. Results are presented in graphical form.

Descriptors:

• *OCEAN CURRENTS
• *WATER WAVES
• *OCEAN WAVES
• PROBABILITY DISTRIBUTION FUNCTIONS
• DEPTH
• VARIABLES
• SHALLOW WATER
• BATHYMETRY
• SPECTRA
• WAVE PROPAGATION
• LIMITATIONS
• SLOPE
• COVARIANCE
• REFRACTION
• PARALLEL ORIENTATION
• ELEVATION
• SPECTRUM ANALYSIS
• AUTOMATIC
• BEACHES
• HEIGHT
• WAVES
• CURRENTS
• FUNCTIONS(MATHEMATICS)
• UPWELLING
• DIRECTIONAL
• CONTOURS
• WATER
• SNELLS LAW
• SHEAR PROPERTIES
• MATHEMATICAL MODELS

Subject Categories:

• Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
• Fluid Mechanics

Distribution Statement:

APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE