Nonlinear Parametric Wave Model Compared with Field Data.
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA
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Wave spectra calculated using the Parameterized Nonlinear Wave Solution developed by Le Mehaute et al. 1984 are compared with field data acquired at Leadbetter beach, Santa Barbara, California. The parameterized solution satisfies the nonlinear free surface boundary conditions to a specified degree of accuracy and is expressed in terms of a converging truncated Fourier series. The wavenumber, surface profile and wave orbital velocities are determined by the wave height and wave period at the local depth of water. Spectral components are compared between the model results and field data. Good agreement is observed for waves corresponding to Ursell numbers rangers from 25 to 75. For large Ursell numbers strong nonlinear effects the parameterized model underestimates the data. Keywords Nonlinear waves Shallow water waves Spectral analysis. Theses
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography