Classification of Coastal Environments, Shorezone Profile Dynamics.
VIRGINIA UNIV CHARLOTTESVILLE DEPT OF ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCES
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Principal components analysis was used to quantify subaerial and subaqueous summer to winter nearshore morphological change on the North Carolina coast near Duck. The first two eigenvectors explained 61.1 of the total variance. El 35.4 of the variance is a profile rotation and E2 25.7 of the variance is a bartrough function. Two major periods of change were found. High pressure systems in October and extratropical cyclones in November were the weather systems implicated in these changes. These storms caused the profiles to become dissipative. Steepness declined and two bars replaced a single bar profile form. A relationship between pre-existing morphology and subsequent changes in the equilibrium bartrough morphology was observed during the storm period. Wave characteristics height, period, steepness, direction, and breaker type could not be associated with profile changes. The simultaneous offshore sediment movement across three well-defined zones of the shorezone suggest that shore-normal edge waves may be the dominant causative agent for these changes.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography