Wave Refraction and Beach Characteristics of a Cape Associated Shoreline, Brevard County, Florida.
FLORIDA INST OF TECH MELBOURNE DEPT OF OCEANOGRAPHY AND OCEAN ENGINEERING
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In October, 1980 twenty-one profiles with sand samples were taken at equal intervals over the beaches of S. Brevard County. From the data, two types of beaches were evident. Wide, flat, fine grained beaches, with few shells were found in the northern part of the study area. To the south narrower, steeper, coarser grained beaches with more shells were found. Wave refraction studies of the area were done by computing wave packet trajectories. The velocity of the wave packets was assumed to be the geometric group velocity theory. The refraction diagrams and wave energy distribution plots showed that Cape Canaveral and its shoals created a shadow zone of low wave energy in the northern part of the study area. Further south, the wave energy increased. The low energy zone had fine sand and a flat slope, the higher energy zone had coarser sand and a steeper slope. The 8, 10, and possibly 12 second northeast waves most strongly control the beach characteristics with 6 and 8 second east waves also having an effect on the beach. Little landward migration of the dune face was found in the areas identified as having erosion problems in previous studies during the period from 1972 to 1980.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography