Comparison of Wave Celerity Theories with Field Data.
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA
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Three independent wave celerity data sets, measured on natural beaches, are compared with linear, bore, solitary, and hyperbolic wave theories. In the range of relative water depths and wave heights tested, hyperbolic wave theory, which is an asymptotic form of cnoidal theory in shallow water, agreed most closely with measured wave celerities. Linear wave theory also gave satisfactory results but bore and solitary wave theories overestimated the observed wave speeds. It is concluded that the observed waves are weakly dispersive in amplitude and that care must be taken to apply the theories only in their regime of validity.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Numerical Mathematics