Fluid-Sediment Interactions on Beaches and Shelves.
Progress rept. 1980-1981,
SCRIPPS INSTITUTION OF OCEANOGRAPHY LA JOLLA CA CENTER FOR COASTAL STUDIES
Pagination or Media Count:
This research seeks to predict shelf and beach forms and their changes from knowledge of local bathymetry and the driving forces due to winds, waves and currents and their complicated interactions with nearshore sediments. The work falls into three distinct but interdependent areas of research wave and current dynamics fluid-sediment interactions coastal zone remote sensing. The principal area of interest in wave and current dynamics continues to be wind generated, surface gravity waves and the currents and other fluid motions which derive their energy from surface waves. The fluid sediment interaction studies lead to an understanding of the shelf and beach sediment response including the fundamental rheology of granular fluids, the longshore and on-offshore transport of sand and the formation of features like cusps and bars. The coastal zone remote sensing tasks are largely exploratory in nature, with the general objective of determining the extent to which signatures from remote sensors can be used to define the broader spatial characteristics of driving forces, and the larger scale ocean surface patterns that are characteristic of nearshore dynamics. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Infrared Detection and Detectors