Transformation of Waves Across the Surf Zone.
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA
Pagination or Media Count:
Godas 1975 model, describing wave transformation from deep water to across the surf zone, is compared with a large amount of wave data obtained from experiments conducted at Torrey Pines Beach, San Diego, California. Godas model simulates wave breaking by truncating the Rayleigh distribution in order to estimate the wave height distributions across the surf zone wave heights are shoaled by applying nonlinear theory. Comparisons between the empirical distributions and theoretical distributions, and between measured and theoretical rms wave heights, are made. It is found that Godas model over-predicts that tails and under-predicts the peaks of the empirical distributions, and that the calculated rms wave heights are too large compared with measured values. The range of breaking, and the coefficients used in the breaking criteria by Goda, are modified in order to obtain a model which better fits the distribution of observed heights, and which matches the model and observed rms wave heights.
- Statistics and Probability
- Fluid Mechanics