Interpretation of Wave Energy Spectra.
Coastal engineering technical aid rept.,
COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER FORT BELVOIR VA
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Guidelines for interpreting nondirectional wave energy spectra are presented. A simple method is given for using the spectrum to estimate a significant height and period for each major wave train in most sea states. The method allows a more detailed and accurate description of ocean surface waves than that given by a single significant height and period, yet it eliminates much of the formidable detail of a full spectrum. An example problem illustrating application of the method is presented. Spectral analysis and display techniques, and the natural variation of spectra in space and time, are discussed. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography