Energy Spectra in Shallow U. S. Coastal Waters.
COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER FORT BELVOIR VA
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Digital wave analyses for 3 to 12 months of data from each of 11 U.S. coastal gages are summarized and discussed. Water depths at the gage sites were typically between 5 and 9 meters. The gage designs included step resistance, continuous wire, pressure, and accelerometer buoy. The analysis for each record included computation of the energy or variance spectrum and the distribution function of sea-surface elevations. Parameters of the spectrum and distribution function of sea-surface elevations were also computed. Spectra and parameters for the 24 highest energy cases from each gage location are presented individually. Spectra for all cases are grouped according to significant wave height and peak spectral period. Mean spectra and standard deviations about the mean are presented for most height-period groups. Parameters for all cases are summarized, including number of major spectral peaks, spectral-peakedness parameter, and third and fourth moments of the normalized distribution function of sea-surface elevations.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography