A Method for Calculating Wave Packet Trajectories and Wave Heights. Part II.
FLORIDA STATE UNIV TALLAHASSEE DEPT OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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In Part I a method for calculating wave packet trajectories and wave heights is based on the assumption that the water depth contours are locally parallel in the vicinity of each ray point. This method is extended in order to predict the modification to surface gravity water waves in shoaling water when the water depth contours are not parallel. The calculations are greatly simplified by choosing a coordinate system at each ray point in which one axis is aligned parallel with the direction of the gradient of the water depth. Example printouts and plots are presented to illustrate the wave prediction method. It is discovered that when waves initially approach sinuous water depth contours symmetrically with respect to the beach there can be more energy in the bays than at the headlands. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Computer Programming and Software