Laboratory Effects in Beach Studies. Volume IV. Movable-Bed Experiments with H sub o/L sub o = 0.021 (1972).
COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER FORT BELVOIR VA
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A two-dimensional movable-bed experiment was conducted in a 6-foot-wide wave tank for 180 hours, with a wave period of 1.90 seconds and a generated wave height of 0.36 foot. The profile had an initial slope of 0.05, which was flatter than the profiles in earlier experiments 0.10 in Vols. II and III of the series, and developed a different profile shape. The profile never reached equilibrium, even though the shoreline stopped retreating and the water temperature was relatively constant for the last 80 hours. Even with the fine-grained, well-sorted sediment used, a measurable sorting occurred as the finer material was eroded and deposited on other parts of the profile. The reflection coefficient, K sub R, varied from 0.04 to 0.27 and the variations in K sub R can be related qualitatively to profile development. The reflection coefficient from the foreshore zone was between 0.06 and 0.12. The large variation in the total profile K sub R appears to be the result of changes in the elevation of the offshore reflecting zone and changes in the distance between the foreshore and offshore reflecting zones. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography