Wave Action and Sediment Transport on Fringing Reef.
LOUISIANA STATE UNIV BATON ROUGE COASTAL STUDIES INST
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Measurements of wave processes, wave-driven currents, and sediment distribution have been made in several fringing reef systems. Wave height and wave period are typically reduced by about 50 as waves pass over the reef crest. This decrease depends primarily upon reef crest water depth, so that wave conditions in the back-reef lagoon show significant changes over a single tide cycle. Wave-driven currents tend to flow continuously onshore over the reef crest. Their velocity is greatest near low tide, when wave breaking is most intense. Current in the lagoon moat generally showed a tendency to drain the lagoon except during brief intervals near flooding tide when a weak current reversal occurred. Sediment distribution in the lagoon displays a pattern that reflects current patterns in the lagoon and wave characteristics at the lagoon shoreline. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography