Wave Climate at Selected Locations Along U.S. Coasts.
COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER FORT BELVOIR VA
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Since 1948, the Coastal Engineering Research Center CERC and its predecessor, the Beach Erosion Board BEB have gathered wave data from U.S. coastal locations. Staff and pressure-sensitive gages, generally shore-based, were used to obtain the data a few gages were operated at offshore locations. Wave records were initially 7-minute pen and ink records taken six times a day, but more recently, 1,024-second digital records on magnetic tape taken four times daily have been used to determine significant wave heights and periods. Summaries of significant heights and periods for 19 gage locations provide useful information on ranges, and annual and seasonal variations of wave climate. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography