Diurnal Variation in Visually Observed Breaking Waves.
COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER FORT BELVOIR VA
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In over 53,000 visual observations made four times daily at 17 U.S. Coast Guard stations during June, July, and August, the average monthly diurnal variations in breaker height ranged from 0.05 to 0.36 foot diurnal variations averaged about 10 percent of the monthly mean height. Stations along the Gulf and in the Pacific Northwest showed the most diurnal variations. Stations with good exposure had smaller absolute diurnal variations in height than stations with limited exposure. Absolute diurnal variations were also small at stations with large mean breaker heights. An approximation of the height, that combines the swell and sea breeze-generated waves, provides an indication of why observed variations were small. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography