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Wave Climate at Torrey Pines Beach, California
SCRIPPS INSTITUTION OF OCEANOGRAPHY LA JOLLA CA
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The wave climate at a site off Torrey Pines Beach, was studied using a line array of four pressure sensors which roughly parallels the coastline at a depth of 10 meters. The pressure sensors were linked to a shelf station that contained accelerometers and, at times, electromagnetic current meters and a surface-piercing staff. The data were transmitted by radio link to a shore recording station. Wave records were taken four times daily from Feb 73 to May 74. The pressure-sensor array data were used to calculate estimates of the frequency-directional spectra of the wave field. The spectra were investigated in an effort to characterize the principal components of the wave field. The wave components were identified as peaks in the frequency spectra. The energy, peak frequency, bandwidth, and direction of these wave components were obtained in the data analysis. These parameters of the wave field are recorded in a tabular form. Seasonal groupings of the wave data reveal the variations of the typical wave conditions over the year. Improvements to the anchoring of cables and connections of the shelf station eliminated most of its failure modes, and the Shelf and Shore SAS system remained on station and operative during seven storms in the winter of 1974. The SAS shows promise of being a reliable long- term data collection system for nearshore waters.
APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE