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Comparison of Computer Simulation Models with Field Data from Nearshore Environments.

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Final rept. Jan 69-Apr 76,

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Computer simulation models of coastal processes provide an accurate means of predicting wave and current conditions in the nearshore environment. A 7-year study was undertaken to develop and test a series of computer simulation models based on time-series data from field studies. The field studies include Stevensville, Mich. Sheboygan, Wis. Mustang Island, Texas Cedar Island, Va. South Beach, Ore. Zion, Ill. and South Haven, Mich. and Plum Island, Mass. A series of computer programs were developed for analysis and plotting of the field data. A Fourier analysis program was used to plot smoothed curves for weather, waves and current variables. Topographic maps and maps of erosion and deposition were plotted based on daily beach and nearshore profiles. An Area-time Prism model was formulated to graphically portray changes in beach and nearshore bar configuration through time. A Coastal Process Simulation Model was developed to predict wave and longshore current conditions, and beach and bar erosion on the eastern shore of Lake Michigan. A Coastal Storm Model based on the size, shape and intensity of a coastal storm predicts wind, waves and currents for any coastal orientation. The coastal storm model can hindcast conditions of past storms or produce short term forecast in developing storms. The model is based on an inverted normal curve which is rotated around the center of a storm system.

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  • Physical and Dynamic Oceanography

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