The Effect of Breaker Shape on Impact Pressures in Surf.
CHICAGO UNIV ILL DEPT OF THE GEOPHYSICAL SCIENCES
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Field measurements were made of the vertical distribution of impact pressures exerted by breaking waves. Four distinct types are recognized and compared. These are near-breaking wave, plunging breaker, spilling breaker and post-breaking bore. The measurements were obtained by placing a six foot aluminum flat plate, backed by a cylinder in the surf zone, so that the flat faced the approaching breakers. Five sensors were placed at one foot intervals on the flat. The sensors consisted of strain gage mounted aluminum diaphragms. Results indicated the impact pressure is significantly influenced by breaker type. The bore generated the largest impact pressures, followed in decreasing order by plunging breaker, spilling breaker and near breaking wave.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Civil Engineering
- Fluid Mechanics