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Small-Scale Surf Zone Geometric Roughness

Descriptive Note:

[Technical Report, Master's Thesis]

Corporate Author:

Naval Postgraduate School

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Measurements of small-scale Omm geometric roughness ksub f associated with breaking wave foam were obtained within the surf zone on a sandy beach near Monterey, California. The ksub f is described by the vertical standard deviation of the foamy sea surface elevation and was estimated using stereo imagery techniques. A waterproof two-camera system with self-logging and internal power was developed using commercial-off-the-shelf components and commercial software for operations 1m above the sea surface within the surf zone. The ksub f of surf zone foam ranged from 1.7mm to 6.3mm with a mean of 3.2mm and confidence interval of 0.4mm for 57 stereo images this is based on consistent area of 9cm squared 3cmx3cm. The tested stereo vertical error is 0.43mm consistent with published errors for stereo cameras. ksub f is biased by the spatial area of estimate, with increasing geometric roughness occurring with increasing spatial area. This is associated with removal of a two-dimensional, two-element polynomial plane. The measured foam ksub f estimates are larger than the suggested bubble roughness of 2mm. Data fitting between the measured surf zone roughness and aerodynamic roughness suggests that the scaling parameter beta between aerodynamic and geometric roughness is the same order of magnitude and very similar to land-based beta estimates.

Subject Categories:

  • Mechanics
  • Physical and Dynamic Oceanography

Distribution Statement:

[A, Approved For Public Release]