Spectral Analyses of Waves and Associated Bottom Pressures off Point Sur, California.
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA
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A time series of pressure variations was obtained by digitizing analogue records of bottom pressure, recorded at Pt. Sur, California, during the periods November, December, and January, 1947-1948, and June, July, and August, 1949. The power spectrum of the pressure variations was found via the amplitude spectra obtained by means of the fast Fourier transform. This spectrum was then smoothed by averaging over several frequency bands and confidence limits were assigned. Surface wave power spectra were inferred from the pressure power spectra and significant wave heights were estimated from these, after applying a procedure designed to remove noise. Values of significant height on the bottom and at the surface are displayed in tabular form and plotted versus time for the selected periods January, 1948, and August, 1949. The spectral patterns of wave activity show the transient nature of the energy due to storm swell and local winds. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography