A FIELD STUDY OF TIDE-INDUCED SAND MOVEMENT ON DEL MONTE BEACH, CALIFORNIA.
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CA
Pagination or Media Count:
Beach-elevation measurements were made and sand samples were collected daily along a profile extending from the back of the beach out to a water depth of approximately 23 feet. Wave and tide data were measured continuously at the site. The beach is well sheltered, and low swell parallel to the beach predominates. Offshore-onshore movement of the plunge point by the tides exerts a large influence on the textural parameters which move on and off shore with the moving plunge point. The magnitude of textural parameter values increases with decreasing wave steepness. It appears that transport of large sand grains by wave and tide action produces the observed textural patterns. Profile changes are greatest during mid-tide stages when the water level and position of the plunge point are changing rapidly. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography