Final rept. Sep 65-Jun 66,
Pagination or Media Count:
A connected account of the theoretical research on tsunamis and related oceanographical problems is given. The main part of the work concerned waves rather close to shore on gentle beaches and continental slopes. It has led to the discovery of the mechanism which converts waves and breakers into run-up and back-wash on the foreshore, and to a non-resonance theorem relevant to the problem of tsunami amplification. The results should also be of value to marine geology and coastal engineering. An investigation of shoaling waves has led to a partial understanding of the structure of weak undular bores. Results have been obtained on internal long-waves in stratified fluids which are relevant also to meteorology.
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Fluid Mechanics