Formation and Development of Beach Cusps on Del Monte Beach, Monterey, California.
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MONTEREY CALIF
Pagination or Media Count:
Observations and measurements were made daily on Del Monte Beach in order to develop a quantitative description of the parameters affecting the formation of beach cusps. Multiple regression techniques were used to formulate an equation relating cusp width to the measured parameters. The life cycle of cusps was studied in order to gain insight into the factors affecting the growth and decay of cusps. It was determined that cusps are depositional in nature and develop sequentially from preferential areas of accretion on the beach. Cusp spacing was found to be a function primarily of wave height energy and wave period. Regularity of the wave regime during formation was found to result in uniform cusp spacing. Little migration was observed in mature cusps, and large changes in the wave regime or beach conditions were required to alter the cusp profiles. The action of large wind waves, storm surges, and breakers, was observed to destroy beach cusps. Author
- Physical and Dynamic Oceanography
- Civil Engineering